During Onam in Kerala, women traditionally wear the off‑white (cream) Kerala kasavu saree or settu mundu/mundum neriyathum, edged with a shimmering gold border (kasavu). This look symbolizes purity, prosperity, and a return to cultural roots. Its history is intertwined with Kerala’s handloom clusters—especially Balaramapuram and Chendamangalam—and the festival custom of Onakkodi (donning new clothes).
What Exactly Is a “Kasavu” Saree?
- Kasavu refers to the gold/silver zari used to weave the border (not the saree itself). The body is usually unbleached cotton in off‑white or cream, finished with a gold border (sometimes silver).
- Two closely related drapes dominate Onam:
- Mundum Neriyathum (Settu Mundu): a two‑piece garment—mundu (lower) + neriyathu (upper).
- Kerala Saree: a single‑piece saree that mimics the look of the two‑piece set.
Women & Men
- Women: kasavu saree or settu mundu, blouse often matching the border color (gold, green, maroon, black, etc.).
- Men: mundu (dhoti) with kasavu border, sometimes paired with a shawl (melmundu) and shirt/kurta for festivities.
A Short History: From Ancient Drapes to Today
- The mundum neriyathum is considered one of the oldest surviving forms of the saree. In classical texts, the lower garment resembles antariya and the upper cloth uttariya. Over time, this two‑piece evolved into the Kerala saree silhouette.
- Handloom heritage: Kerala’s weaving hubs (notably Balaramapuram near Thiruvananthapuram and Chendamangalam near Kochi) perfected fine cottons with minimalist design and lustrous kasavu borders. Kuthampully set‑mundu has GI (Geographical Indication) status.
- In art & memory: 19th‑century painter Raja Ravi Varma frequently depicted women in mundum neriyathum, cementing its association with Malayali identity.
Why Wear Kasavu for Onam? The Essence
- Onakkodi: the Onam tradition of wearing new clothes—for many, that means a fresh kasavu saree or mundu.
- Simplicity + Grandeur: the plain, creamy base symbolizes purity and humility, while the gold border evokes prosperity, auspiciousness, and celebration.
- Cultural unity: Across communities in Kerala, kasavu attire turns homes, offices, and schools into a sea of white‑and‑gold during the ten days of Onam.
How It’s Worn (and Styled) Today
- Classic drape: Keep pleats crisp; let the gold border frame the silhouette.
- Blouse picks: Gold, green, maroon, black, or brocade; contemporary choices include Kalamkari or block prints.
- Jewellery: Traditional Kerala gold, temple jewellery motifs, jasmine flowers in the hair, bangles.
- He/She pair styling: Couple looks with matching border tones are popular for Onam functions and photoshoots.
Where the Fabric Comes From (Craft Notes)
- Balaramapuram: famed for fine‑count cotton and hand‑thrown pit looms; the kasavu border is often real zari or tested metallic yarn depending on price tier.
- Chendamangalam: known for balanced, airy cottons and kasavu detailing; many contemporary reinterpretations originate here.
- Kuthampully (GI‑tagged): distinctive set mundu and dhoties that highlight regional loom identities.
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